Hello Bhutan

4 August, 2014

8.30 am IST - We set off for the airport with our 14 pieces of baggage and two Men Friday. We were assisted at the airport by a protocol officer from the Bhutanese embassy in Delhi, and escorted through immigration, customs and onto the aircraft. In about an hour after take off we landed in Katmandu. And then the aircraft was airborne again for our final destination – Bhutan.  

We had asked for seats on the left of the aircraft so that we would have a good view of the mighty Himalayan peaks over the clouds.  I have a fascination for all mountains and feel completely humbled and awestruck by them. Yet there is something different in my awe and feeling towards the Himalayas vis-à-vis some of the lofty peaks in the Alps for instance. I feel a little sentimental about the former, which have shaped our history, our culture, our sensibilities – for better or for worse, and made our geography so distinctive. I was keeping a keen eye out for some of the highest of the Himalayan giants and quite soon after take off from Katmandu, the first one I spotted was Mt. Everest, gleaming and glinting hard and solid amidst and above the puffy soft white clouds – both the former and latter are white, yet what a difference……can’t ever mistake a peak for a cloud! Next we saw Kanchenjunga, the river of gold, and not long thereafter we were descending for our landing. 

Listening to the announcements on the aircraft as we were preparing to land, I couldn’t help thinking how sweet and soft the Bhutanese language (Dzongkha) sounded, and that I would like to learn it if I could. Rolling hill upon hill was thickly covered with trees as we came in to land, and suddenly we were flying past a most amazing circle, the lower half of which was etched by the bowl of the green valley we were flying over, the upper arc of the circle being formed by a huge white cloud that hung over the valley in that instant! As we flew past this circle of green and white I realized that there were still a few minutes to go before we reached Paro airport and that sadly we were not going to have to go through that circle! What was so remarkable about the green cover on the hills below us was how evenly it was spread ......no clumps of trees, no bare patches, no ravaged and quarried hillsides, no charred fields, no dead, lightning stricken tree stumps! 

I had heard a lot about the tricky landing we were going to experience in Paro, but was not particularly worried about it. It was a beautifully clear day as we came in to land in the narrow valley and we seemed to be in very competent hands. I advanced my watch by 30 minutes as soon as we landed, and got ready to step into the pure, fresh air to begin what promised to be a memorable posting! 

Two separate reception parties, one of officers from our own embassy and the other consisting of officials from the Bhutanese foreign office were lined up and waiting on the tarmac as we disembarked. We were greeted warmly and quickly whisked off to a building where tea, snacks and fruit kept us busy till our baggage had been identified and collected, immigration formalities completed and the cars that would drive us to Thimphu lined up. 

Accompanied by a bright, young protocol officer from the foreign office we were driven to Thimphu in the protocol car. Ahead of us went a pilot car with lights flashing on its roof, bringing passersby including school children to their feet as a mark of respect for the VIP they surmised would be following the pilot car – a result of their training and culture we were informed by the young officer with us. Almost all along the drive to the capital we had the faithful, gurgling company of the Paro river (Pachhu). Over the confluence of the Paro (Pachhu) and Thimphu (Thimpchhu) rivers we crossed a bridge which was an interesting crossroads – one road from this point went to Phuentsholing, one to Paro (we would now leave this road), another to Thimphu (which we would now take) and yet another to Haa. 

Our companion along the way to Thimphu, which we entered about half an hour later,was the lovely Thimpchhu. Fifteen minutes or so into the capital we spotted a signboard saying “India House Estate”. Going slightly downhill from this point we entered the sprawling 67 acre estate and arrived at the Residence of the Ambassador of India to Bhutan at 5 pm Bhutan time. There was an enormous and gorgeous looking cake waiting for us in the grand lobby of the Residence – a welcome gesture from His Majesty the King of Bhutan himself. Hubby and I cut it jointly, had some of the staff assembled there plate it up, and asked His Majesty’s messenger to convey to him our heartfelt appreciation of his kindness and thoughtfulness. Well our day was not over yet. One of our officers at the embassy very kindly and graciously hosted us for dinner that night and then we crashed as early as we could knowing that the next day was to be a momentous one - my husband the Ambassador Designate would present his credentials to His Majesty the King of Bhutan!  

It's been just about 84 hours since we got here, but so much has happened in that time that all of that will have to be in separate posts folks! So do look out for more entries here in the days and months to come and thanks for taking the time out to read my ramblings thus far.